Western Africa

Essaouira

An alternative and relaxed city

Just 170km from bustling Marrakech and 175km from Agadir, this coastal retreat is home to a historic old town that was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. Essaouira is considered an alternative, laid-back city with a blue skyline that contrasts with its pink ochre fortifications and blue-framed white houses. No wonder this city is called the blue pearl of the Atlantic.

Part of Essaouira's essence is said to come from the time it was occupied by the Portuguese, back in the 16th century when they attempted to control the West African coast. Although they only stayed for about 20 years, they did manage to completely transform the city, formerly known as Mogador, by building its first port. Soon Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah came to understand the strategic importance of this commercial port (the closest to Marrakesh) and wanted to modernise it. This favoured the arrival of Jews who, with their trading skills, secured a prosperous economy. Many traces of their passage are still visible today, such as the remains of Talmudic schools and synagogues scattered throughout the Jewish quarter or Mellah.

A very curious fact is that during the 60’s and 80’s Essaouira experienced a new springtime thanks to the hippie movement driven by artists such as Jimi Hendrix, Frank Zappa and The Rolling Stones. Furthermore, another curious fact is that Essaouira has been the setting for major Hollywood productions such as Game of Thrones.

Stroll through the Medina, declared a World Heritage Site in 2001; surrounded by walls, it is one of the best preserved and most beautiful medieval medinas you are likely to see. Enter through one of its three gates: Bab Sebaa, Bab Marrakech and Bab Doukhala, and you will find a labyrinth of narrow streets flanked by whitewashed houses with blue doors, cafés, fish markets, restaurants, artisan souks, etc., as well as mosques. Don't miss the Grain Square, the Souk Jdid, the Clock Tower and Moulay Hassan Square, perfect for sitting on a terrace and ordering a mint tea.

Take a stroll along Skala Street, which skirts the sealine and will take you to the Skala de la Kasbah or de la Ville, a fort overlooking the sea with numerous cannons. There you can go up to the Skala du port, a harbour wall that offers a superb panoramic view from its tower, with the walled city and the Atlantic Ocean in the background. This fortress and sections of the ramparts became even more famous when scenes from the third season of Game of Thrones were filmed here.

Essaouira Harbour is spectacular, chock-a-block with small blue fishing boats. The frenetic activity here makes it one of the prettiest places to visit in Essaouira during the day: some repair or paint their boats, others return from fishing, unloading large quantities of fish for the restaurants, while thousands of seagulls are on the lookout for leftovers and any carelessness. Likewise, at dusk it is worth coming here to take in a fantastic sunset.

Wandering around the Jewish Quarter is another great plan. Up to 17,000 Jews once lived here, attracted by the trading possibilities the port of Essaouira had to offer, but after World War II they began their exodus to Israel. Some of their essence is still palpable today. Walking through the ramshackle streets of the Mellah you can visit old synagogues and enter a Jewish school or cemetery.

Surfing or relaxing on its vast beaches are things you can do all year round in Essaouira. There is also plenty of wind here, making it ideal for kite surfing and windsurfing.

If adventure is more your scene, there are also other experiences and activities such as quad bashing in the dunes, horse riding on the beach, camel riding, etc.

Eating fish is one of the best things to do in Essaouira. Here the way to do it is to buy it by weight and have it prepared for you on the spot. Essaouira is all about fish, seafood and the aroma of the sea. Salads, couscous and Moorish tea. There is little else in life like enjoying lunch or dinner with the views, the sea breeze and the sound of seagulls on a rooftop terrace in Essaouira.

Around the Medina's fish market there is plenty of choice. Sumptuous dishes of sardines and prawns served with slices of salt, tomato and cucumber salad, along with a spicy sauce.

In general, traditional cuisine uses exotic fruits, spices unique to the region, vegetables and seafood in its recipes. Take a chance and try what they recommend, even if you don't know exactly what you're going to find.

Among the meat recipes, lamb is, of course, the number one choice. It can be ordered roasted or baked. Either way it is delicious. The national dish is tajin, which takes its name from the earthenware bowl in which a stew of chicken or meat (sometimes also fish) and vegetables is prepared. All deliciously flavoured and eaten directly from the bowl itself. Another gastronomic symbol is pastella, a kind of pasty with poultry, hard-boiled egg, parsley, almonds, sugar, cinnamon and honey. It is possible to eat couscous every day and it will always be prepared differently, as there are hundreds of ways and ingredients to accompany it.

As for sweetmeats, the traditional ones are often delicious. Especially popular are shebbakia and feqqas with sultanas.

And after a delicious meal, there's nothing better than trying the national drink, mint tea, which, believe it or not, will help cool you down during the hottest part of the day.

Essaouira's wine is another curiosity you shouldn’t fail to try. Domaine du Val D'Argan is the name of a local winery that is well reputed in its sector, and which we also recommend you visit. An original plan that we recommend you enjoy, however always with respect for local traditions, trying not to drink ostentatiously in public.

Essaouira is an ideal destination for what is now known as slow tourism: a relaxing getaway, for tourists who appreciate nature and tranquillity, good food, walks, going to the beach and even practising sea sports.

There is also a guide to follow in Jimi Hendrix's footsteps in Essaouira, replicating his visit in '69, perfect for fans of this artist and rock fans in general. There is a certain halo of legend, many stories and testimonies of those days that are still alive and well in the city today.

Essaouira has been the setting for major Hollywood productions. In 1948 the filmmaker Orson Welles shot some important scenes of his film “Othello” looking for the story of a soldier in the service of the Venetian Republic. There is a square named after him and a statue.

Oliver Stone's film “Alexander”, starring Anthony Hopkins among others, was also filmed in the area. More recently, Essaouira was the fictional Astapor in the legendary “Game of Thrones” series, which was filmed in the port area, as you'll recognise if you're a true fan of the series.

The Essaouira Gnawa or Gnaoua and World Music Festival is considered the Woodstock of Africa. It is held during the last week of June (it usually lasts 3 to 4 days and admission is free). This festival was created to support the heritage of the Gnawas, members of mystical Muslim brotherhoods who use song, dance and rituals to reach a trance. Rituals aside, you can enjoy music by local and international artists with North African rhythms, jazz, blues, funk, pop, rock and soul. In addition, the festival features performances by magicians, seers, snake charmers and colourful Gnawa costumes. An event not to be missed.